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To be seen in public together would damage the boy's career prospects as well as her reputation as a virtuous young woman. The girl would emerge just as soon as she could extricate herself.So their dates consisted entirely of long walks in the dark. At first, they would walk in silence, then their voices would gradually rise to whispers and then to normal conversational levels as they left the village and relaxed into the night.It is baffling how a nation of 23 million people can appear as vacant as the oceans. You can see the evidence of what has been lost dangling overhead alongside any major road – the skeletal wires of the rusted electrical grid that once covered the entire country.

Then, in the middle of it all, an expanse of blackness nearly as large as England. With the collapse of the Soviet Union, which had propped up its old Communist ally with cheap fuel oil, North Korea's creakily inefficient economy collapsed. North Korea is not an undeveloped country; it is a country that has fallen out of the developed world.The darkness confers measures of privacy and freedom as hard to come by in North Korea as electricity.I met many North Koreans who told me how much they learnt to love the darkness, but it was the story of one teenage girl and her boyfriend that impressed me most.In the 1990s the United States offered to help North Korea with its energy needs if it gave up its nuclear weapons programme.But the deal fell apart after the Bush administration accused the North Koreans of reneging on their promises.

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